12 November 2015

Expat Family Flight Adventures

We are in the process of booking our Christmas flights.  We are being mundane this year and rather than jetting off (as we have done in the past) to somewhere exciting like Cambodia or Lebanon and Turkey we are just flying to the UK.  Nevertheless it is overdue, Mr EE has 3 pages left on his passport so needs a new one. I have not been back in 23 months, Mr, Master and Miss EE in 18 months and Mini EE has never been to her passport country so we have a lot of people to catch up with.

We have not got around to booking yet for a myriad of rather tiresome reasons but we think we now have dates and can start to explore options. 1 year must be the worst age to fly with, when they are babies they are easily portable, not too heavy and sleep most of the time.  From 2 they have their own seat, watch TV, sleep and eat and are not much trouble (at least the older two were not) but at 1 she has to sit on our laps.  Mr EE and I will have to sort out a 2 hour on/off rota and just make the best of it.  I doubt I will ever be able to approach it with the calm of my travel heroine.  I don't know her name and met her only once but she was on our flight from Frankfurt to Astana to meet her husband who had gone out ahead of her.  She was travelling with her 3 year old, two infant twins and three cats.  She had her mother along to help but this woman was spectacular and never once appeared to be stressed.

So as we search Opodo and Kayak it has me thinking.  For us the real joy of expat life is the chance to explore many diverse places in depth.  I have never, however, fallen in love with any mode of travel other than driving (we love roadtrips).  Flying is a particular form of purgatory and of course one that expat families experience with far more wearying regularity than most others.  It is also full of pitfalls...
Cultivate an interest in aviation - expat children
spend an inordinate amount of time in airports!

Annoying travellers

My mother used to attract these - she would always end up seated next to a weirdo.  She spent one flight next to someone we thought was a potential drugs mule, a rather young Dutch girl whose ticket to Venezuela had been paid for by an older male 'penpal' who was sponsoring her 'trip of a lifetime' but could she bring some things back for his family in the Netherlands.  My mother spoke to the airline staff who were able to contact consular officials as the plane landed.  We are not sure what happened but I think she never cleared passports and was taken home on the return flight.

I seem to have inherited her gift, in spades!  When we were a family of 4 Mr EE would opt to sit with the children - he would get their unwanted food, extra leg room and massive kudos from the airline staff who saw a 'dad' travelling with his children (women never get the same kudos but that is a whole other story). So I was ripe for targeting.  From the morbidly obese (I felt dreadfully sorry for the man who was very obviously unwell but I ended up squished in 1/4 of my seat with my face plastered against the window for an entire flight, thank goodness it was only 6 hours), to nervous and therefore drunk flier or the elderly and infirm I get them all!  (With, thank goodness, the exception of the groper, Mr EE says I give off a no nonsense, don't mess with me vibe, that keeps them away).

The absolute pits, however, must be the garrulous flier, the one who wants to tell you their life story in excruciating detail.  Nothing stops them, I have tried pulling out my 'phone and placing it on the table, getting out a book but they NEVER. TAKE. THE. HINT.  One 14 hour flight was spent listening to the fertility battles of an Australian miner and his Central Asian wife and the subsequent struggles they had when their child was (very sadly) born disabled.  The man very obviously wanted to talk to someone about his wife and son and needed a sympathetic ear but 14 hours!  Mr EE says I should just say I have had enough and put my earphones in but I can't bring myself to do that.  Any tips gratefully appreciated.

Airports seem to manage to look the same - the world round.
Surly Airline Staff

I get that dealing with the public is stressful and that some people are breathtakingly rude to airline staff.  Many, however, seem to be proactively rude and are extremely unhelpful, although to be fair this tends to apply to the ground staff, cabin staff are often excellent.

My particular favourites are the rude check in staff who look at you like mud for not using the automatic check in (we have oversize luggage and pets, we can't automate!) to the ones who try to absolve their airlines for all responsibilities to you, much like the Turkish Airlines Check in clerks who seriously suggested that we were responsible for our own accommodation for two days when the airline cancelled our flight and booked us on the next one.  No, we are not, you pay for a New Year hotel or re-reroute us!

That pales into insignificance, however, to the lovely people who work the transfer desks.  The cheapest flights from Astana to London were with Ukraine International and I always had good experiences with them (I flew back once a month).  Their code-share on Astana flights was not so impressive but rather wonderfully named Aerosvit (also known as (AeroS(you get the idea)).  One flight saw us delayed in Astana until the banks in Ukraine opened because the airline had not paid their gate fees.  The transfer rep tasked with getting me through security in time to get on my next flight got to her task with gusto elbowing people out of the way with some force and pushed a child over.  His mother thought I was the culprit and grabbed my hair in an attempt to force me down to the ground and start kicking me until I was rescued by some bystanders - travel really does bring out the worst in people.  I was so relieved to be on my own that time, I can't imagine that I would have been able to stay calm had someone laid into me infront of the children (or even worse laid into the children).
Airport staff seem to love to make life hell - its better when
you get onboard!
Technical and other problems

The joy of tech delays, swapping planes, emergency landings or the flight being held back because of weather problems.  These seemed to happen all the time in my youth but we seem to have been rather lucky of late with only a few nightmarish exceptions.  Mr EE has had some truly amazing delays, all on the way to interviews as it happens and once in Astana where they kept on promising to board the plane in the next hour until they finally got away 12 hours later.  The passengers bought the small airport cafe out of all food and drink and Miss EE had so many nosebleeds she had no clean clothes left.  Annoyingly I was only 45 minutes drive away but I could not get clean clothes through security.  We did have a long technical fault delay in Beirut where we got through all the pre-flight checks only for the pilot to abort his take off attempt at the head of the runway.  We thought we would end up sleeping on the airport benches (and trying to sell it as an adventure to Master and Miss EE who were only 5 and 3 at the time) but when the airline realised they would need to fly a replacement plane down they put us up in a suite at a local hotel.  To be fair I never mind technical delays, I would rather the flight was fixed than not and being stuck in an airport is better than an emergency landing.

It is not just planes that can go wrong, a few years ago we were stuck in Istanbul when the passport scanners failed.  We were stuck in those horrible weaving lines for some time with no water while they tried to fix the system.  The children did their best but they got bored and cranky, and no wonder we were too.  Everyone was in the same boat though so flights were held and went pretty much as soon as the problem was solved.

Of course there are things that can't be prepared for.  Last year came with bad news for Malaysian Airlines and Air Asia and of course the recent Metrojet incident is a warning.  The children are aware that bad things can happen (one of the children at their school at the time had a parent on MH17) but we are very clear about how rare these things are as the last thing we need is nervous fliers in the family and we discuss these tragedies quite openly and calmly.



So as we book our Christmas break we are wrestling with these questions.  Does breaking the flight halfway make it more bearable or prolong the agony? Is it worth getting an overnight AirBNB in Muscat or Dubai?  Does splitting travel make the chances of a nightmare flight more likely?  Will I end up stuck with a weirdo? Will the baby sleep at all?  Will we end up diverted on a completely crazy route?  Will the plane break down?  Will the London airports be open or closed for fog/snow/ice?

Anyway after 4 decades of this type of experience I accept that I am lucky if it all goes right as it is more likely to go wrong!  We split everyone's clothes between different cases and handluggage, make sure the electronics (particularly the children's) are charged in case entertainment on the plane is not working, that Master and Miss EE have a book to read for takeoff and landing and pray that we will be able to get some form of food and water post security that I can package and take on the flight and keep us all going in the event a visiting dignitary cannot make his mind up about his time of departure and keeps all flights grounded - yes i'm looking at you Emir of (okay I won't say it incase we end up posted there in the future).  There is an upside problems when they occur, by the time Master, Miss and Mini EE are old enough to travel on their own they will have seen it all and know how to cope with all the fun of the expat flight adventure!

Will you be flying anywhere for Christmas?  What challenges have you had in the past and what tips do you have for coping with them?

Click on the picture below for more posts on the challenges of expat life.

Ersatz Expat

Part of the Expat Family monthly link up hosted by Seychelles Mama.

Seychelles Mama

10 November 2015

Perdie the Kazakh Dog Turns 2 In Malaysia - Adventures of an Expat Dog

Perdie, her first day
We have family members in the military and, for that reason, Remembrance Sunday*  has always played an important part in our lives and that of our children.  Since 2013, however, Remembrance Sunday has played an even more pivotal role in our lives.

Being a baby is tiring work!
That morning Mr EE and I had been chatting in bed as we put off getting dressed for the lengthy outdoors ceremony in the biting cold of Astana and I had noticed an email calling for a forever family for a little black pup rescued at the university campus.  I made the fatal mistake of opening the attachment and saw the most adorable baby looking back at me.  She was about 2 months old and looked the spitting image of our dog Bessie.

Making friends
Getting to know us
Bessie had been very unwell and we were worried she would not last another winter (she is, thank goodness alive and happy here in Malaysia).  'What a shame', I said, that we can not take on this little dog.  'Why not' retorted Mr EE, 'she would give Bessie reason to live again'.  I proceeded to outline the 1001 reasons we should not get a pup.  I was working, we were going on a long holiday in a few weeks, we were expecting to move the following June and would have to pay for two dogs.  Mr EE (and the children) waved away every single one of those excuses.

Settling in to a night of movie watching
Mr EE was obviously determined to have that pup because at the Remembrance Sunday reception he showed to pictures to one of my very close friends, the owner of Scruffy Nellie, (who was due to sit Bessie while we were going to be away).  She immediately joined in, convincing me that there were no real obstacles, she would take care of the pup along with Bessie for Christmas (a true friend indeed), our housekeeper would be there in the day to look after her while I was at work.  The consensus was that we owed it to Bessie to get the pup.

What is this wet stuff?
Two days later Bessie and I went to meet 'Little Bear' who was living with her foster family.  Bessie was a little cranky but within a few minutes had taken to the puppy. Quarter of an hour later and Little Bear had joined us in the car and we high tailed it to the pet shop to buy the necessaries.

What do I do with this?
She made herself at home almost immediately, learning her new name (Perdita), snuggling up on Mr EE's lap, licking the children and playing beautifully with Bessie and it went well from there.  House training, in an apartment with a slow lift, in the middle of a Central Asian winter was not fun but we (just about) managed it.  Bessie got a new lease of life with a puppy to teach.

Water is fun!
Since then every day with Perdie has been a joy.  Although marked on her passport as a generic 'local breed' the vet thought she was at least part Tazi, a Kazakh breed not dissimilar to Salukis and Afghan hounds though a little smaller.  She is certainly dim enough as I have never yet had a dog so hard to train!  She was obviously designed for the Kazakh weather  as she surprised us by needing no coat, even on the coldest of days, and managing the ice without recourse to booties.  Her fur is more like hair and seems to be a single (very thick) coat.  It is almost waterproof as water beads off it and it takes a long time to soak her in the shower and she dries almost immediately when she swims.  She can also run faster than any other dog we have ever had (including my father's lurcher).


Sofas are fun too!
Perdie coped with the move to Borneo with no problems, taking her to see the sea for the first time in her life was one of the most pleasurable experiences of mine.  Watching her puzzled face change to a look of absolute joy as Bessie showed her how to play in the water made our day.  Seeing her run for kilometres along the beach with no need to stop was fabulous.

Best pals!
We have no beaches here in Ipoh but we do have a lake outside our house where she can swim (and chase fish) to her heart's content.  She needs more exercise than that though and when she cannot join Mr EE on his evening run she gets frustrated and naughty.  When she gets her run she spends the rest of her day alternating between snuggling up at our feet, content to have her ears scratched or chasing the cat up and down the stairs.

Going for a run - at least 5k a day!
And a swim
So this Sunday was the anniversary of the first time we ever heard of Perdita and Thursday is her official 'Finding Day'.  Over the last two years she has grown up from a cute pup to a beautiful girl.   Expats must be crazy to own pets, the cost, the stress and the hassle of the import/export process is a nightmare but we are happy to be crazy.  Our little lost one, who gives us more pleasure than we can ever repay, has a forever home with us, from Kazakhstan to Malaysia and who knows where else.  Happy finding day our darling girl.

But snuggles with mummy are still the best!

*Remembrance Sunday is the Sunday closest to 11 November when Britain and many commonwealth countries commemorate those who died in defence of the nation, 11 November is the actual day of remembrance as the Armistice to WWI was signed at 11 on 11 November (11th month) 1918.

Click on the picture for more posts on expat pets

The Ersatz Guide To Expat Pets

Posted as part of the weekly Animal Tales linky

ANIMALTALES

4 November 2015

Travel At Home 1

Welcome to Travel At Home.  

Wherever you are in the world there are probably so many wonderful and fascinating things to see.  If you are anything like my family it becomes all too easy to ignore the sites close to home, falling prey to the belief that they will 'always be there'.  Familiarity breeds contempt and we hanker after the exotic.  But the truth is home for one person is exotic to many others.  As an expat family we get to be at home in a wide range of different places and we try to make sure that we make the most of any place we are living right now, getting out and exploring as much as possible.  

Over the past few months I have noticed that the posts on other blogs that I enjoy reading most of all talk about places.  It could be the bloggers home country; it could be their host city.  It does not really matter, reading about locations is a wonderful way to visit and see through another person’s eyes, even if just for a few minutes.  I wanted to see if it was possible to draw them all together into one place and that is where the idea of this link up was born.

Travel at Home is the linky for people who want to write about their home (or host) location and all the places that don't make it into a guide book (but really should).  You don't have to be an expat to participate, just someone with a passion for their local area.  The link will be open for a week so there is plenty of time to add your post (or posts).  This is all very new to me at the moment so if you notice that something does not work as it should or you think I could improve something please do let me know.

There are just a few rules:
  • Share your post - it can be a new post or an old one you want to share with a new audience.
  • You can write about anywhere as long as you have or had a connection to the location.
  • Add the link up button to your post so that people can navigate back easily.
  • Comment on some of the other posts on the link up (the more the merrier).
  • Tweet/share your link.  If you include me (@ErsatzExpat) in your tweet I will retweet.
  • Add your post to the Travel At Home Pinterest Board contact me via Pinterest and I will add you to the board.
  • Spread the word - the more the merrier and everyone is welcome.
Monthly link ups will go in the main feed but will then be linked to the Travel At Home page for reference.  Thank you in advance for linking up and participating in this new venture.  I look forward to enjoying some vicarious visits in the next few days.  

Ersatz Expat

Perak Tong

I have written a lot of posts about the various temples we have visited here in Ipoh from Sam PohTong with its hidden pond, Ling Sen Tong with its colourful sculptures or the unexpected, Enchanted Heart Tibetan tradition temple.
Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
Temple hidden in the trees
Perhaps the most well known of all the Ipoh Temples is, however, the Perak Cave Temple (Perak Tong).  Ipoh is surrounded by limestone hills which make spectacular locations for the cave temples.  Most of these hills are in small ranges but the one in which Perak Tong is built is rather isolated and seems to stand on its own in the middle of an industrial area full of warehouses and second hand car lots.
Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
Temple entrance
Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
A goddess of fortune...and me!
I first saw this temple when I got lost in the early days of living in Ipoh and saw the ponds out of the corner of my eye.  I resolved to go back one day.  It is a comparatively recent temple, built by a Chinese immigrant family in the 1920s and still managed by their descendants today. 
Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
Entering the cavern
Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
Buddha
The eyecatching ponds, guarded by a goddess and situated between the temple and the road are rather a disappointment close to.  They are very dirty and devoid of life except hungry mosquitoes.  If they were a disappointment, however, the temple was most certainly not.  From the outside it looks rather ordinary.  The inside, however, is anything but.

Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
Devotional Bells
Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
Dragon
We expected to see a cavern but the interior is a cathedral, it was huge.  In the outer chamber there was a large statue of a seated Buddha flanked by guards on either side wall.  There was  a main altar for prayer offerings and a gigantic bell to ring to draw the attention to your devotions.  The walls of the temple are covered with drawings, some naïve some spectacular works of calligraphy.

Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat

Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat


Going through to the rear portion of the cave there are a number of smaller ‘side chapels’ each with their own altar and again covered in calligraphy.  At the very back you come to the stairs (all 450 of them) which lead from the base of the cave up to the buildings at the top of the hill.  The steps are steep and rather narrow in some places and although there are plenty of places to rest, the heat the climb can be quite enervating. 

Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
Statue in a side chapel
Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
Tiny tiger
Perak Tong Ersatz Expat
Steps to the cave top
After a while, however, you climb out of the rock and into the gardens on the hill.  These are a haven for wildlife and, in the absence of haze, would be a lovely place to sit and enjoy a drink (looking in at the gardens and not out at the sea of warehouses at the base of the hill!).  As it was the haze meant that we could not stay for long without problems so we, reluctantly, started the climb back down to enjoy another wander through the temple and some fruit from the small café.


Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
Paths over the hill
Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
Plenty of places to rest
Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
A sadly uninspiring view marred by haze
Although not the best of the Ipoh temples the Perak Tong is probably the most well-known.  As a result it does seem to get more visitors than the others, it is also easy to find as from the Ipoh Bypass you simply take road no 1 to Sungai Siput.  I took my father on a visit the day before he flew home.  The children were in school, the baby asleep at home (with a babysitter) and it seemed the ideal way to finish off a trip to Ipoh.  It is certainly a good place to while away a few hours and one to which we will return to show Mr EE and the children.  

Perak Tong - Ersatz Expat
The ubiquitous temple dog

Posted as part of the new Travel at Home monthly linky.

Ersatz Expat

Click the picture for more information on life in Ipoh.

Ersatz Expat

3 November 2015

Orang-utans!

Bukit Merah Orang Utan Sanctuary Ersatz Expat
Bukit Merah Orangutan Sanctuary - A safe place to grow up.

It seems crazy to think that we lived for 9 months in Borneo, the island of Orangutans and yet never had the chance to see any.  To be fair, Miri where we lived, was not the correct area but we had been hoping to drive over to sanctuaries.  Sadly we left before we had the chance.   I thought we had lost the chance of seeing them in Malaysia so imagine my surprise when I found out that there was an Orangutan sanctuary at Bukit Merah about an hour’s drive from our new home.  We had our first non hazy day in months and we decided to make the most of it!

Bukit Merah Orang Utan Sanctuary Ersatz Expat
Walking to the ticket office at the jetty

The Bukit Merah sanctuary is home to just over 20 Bornean Orangutans (there are two subspecies, Bornean and Sumatran), many of whom were born there.  They are housed on an island where they have free access to over 15 acres of vegetation.  The keepers and other staff at the sanctuary are incredibly knowledgeable and very dedicated.  Their aim is to reintroduce as many of the animals back to the wild as they possibly can.  One of the ladies was telling us that they hope that it might even be possible to start reintroducing them to the Malaysian peninsula and not just in Borneo. 

Bukit Merah Orang Utan Sanctuary Ersatz Expat
The sanctuary is isolated on the lake and the perfect place to
keep the animals safe.  

The sanctuary is part of a wider ‘holiday’ complex on a large inland lake somewhat reminiscent of a British seaside town.  There are hotels, cafes, food courts, a water park and a small zoo.  It was rather noisy and reasonably busy even for the season but the atmosphere was not unpleasant.  We walked straight through to the jetty where you can buy tickets for the sanctuary.  Boats to the sanctuary island leave every 45 minutes so you never have to wait long.  Foreigners pay more than Malaysian citizens but even so the tickets were not expensive, particularly given the work the organisation does. 

Walking through the tunnel.  You can see the herb garden
and the feeding tubes on the right.  These are used when they
want to limit contact between keepers and animals.

The ride out to the island is not long but it is far enough to ensure that it is a peaceful place, undisturbed by the busy resort on the shore.  On arrival we were greeted with cups of fresh, cool mango juice.  From there we were able to go through the site.  The island is designed a little like an aquarium tunnel.  The visitors are kept inside the cage and the animals have free reign. Of course this means that the opportunities for clear photographs are limited but we were there to see the animals and the island is run for their benefit not the tourists which is the way it  should be. The cage is only short but the animals are so engaging that we could have spent 2-3 hours there (we had about 45 minutes because it started to rain).  Along the tunnel the sanctuary have created a herb garden showcasing some of the major domestic herbs and they have samples for sale. 

Bukit Merah Orang Utan Sanctuary Ersatz Expat
Young children playing and sharing fruit

A Japanese tour was sharing the same boat as us.  They were very taken with Mini EE who seemed to be the subject of as many photos as the orangutans.  They had their own guide which meant that we had the attention of an extremely knowledgeable and friendly lady all to ourselves.  She truly made the trip; she knew all the animals and was able to tell us about their life history and background in great detail.  She was excellent with the children, particularly Master EE who is fascinated by primates. 

Adam, 12 years old and waiting to be released to the wild in
a few years time. 
Bukit Merah Orang Utan Sanctuary Ersatz Expat
Adam watched us quite intently.

Early on we met a trio of very young ‘children’.  Aged between 3 and 6 they were obviously having a great time playing in the trees and then popping out to say hello.  Near them, but in a separate area, there was the 12 year old Adam.  He is already very big but has yet to develop the large cheek pouches that define Bornean male Orangutans.  In a few more years when he reaches maturity he will be released to the wild.  The guide told us that he has quite an individual personality.  While most of the others ignore them he will quite happily share (or allow them to steal without getting angry) fruit with the wild monkeys that live on the island. 

Bukit Merah Orang Utan Sanctuary Ersatz Expat
An adolescent male using tools!

A little further on we came across some older juvenile males. Although adult males are solitary this trio obviously enjoyed each other’s company for the time being.  I had heard of chimpanzees and gorillas using tools before but with these three we saw the process in action.  They had seen something they wanted between the inner and outer fences so proceeded to pick up a twig and use it to manoeuvre it towards them.  The guide told us that the animals are very clever and are able to carry out experiments.  The inner fences are electric and run on solar power.  They know that the current can fail from time to time and they have been known to test to see when it is safe to try to explore beyond the fence. 

Bukit Merah Orang Utan Sanctuary Ersatz Expat
Three good friends.

The highlight of the visit was to see a female orangutan, Nicole, with her little baby Cha Cha.  Cha Cha is about the same age as Mini EE (and a lot larger) she is still very dependent on her mother.  Although she played on the ground nearby when sedentary she is carried everywhere.  We were told that Orangutans have a very similar lifecycle to us.  Their menstrual cycle is around 30 days, their gestation around 9 months and the babies nurse to around 3 or 4 years old.  The mother will typically continue to care for the child until it is about 8 or 9 and not have another in that time.  They live around 30 years in the wild and 50 in captivity. 

Bukit Merah Orang Utan Sanctuary Ersatz Expat
A beautiful and intelligent lady.

The guide and keepers asked us to stay back behind the tour and then allowed me to enter in between the inner and outer fences to get closer to Nicole and Cha Cha and take some photographs.  It was a huge privilege and one I am very grateful for, not only to be able to take the photographs but to have had the opportunity to get within a meter of this beautiful, intelligent animal and her wonderful, precious little baby.

Bukit Merah Orang Utan Sanctuary Ersatz Expat
Soulful, intelligent eyes.  

Sadly about the same time it started to rain.  The boats cannot run in heavy downpours so they try to get people off the island incase the rain lasts a long time.  We had been hoping to spend longer and we will go back if we can.  As it turned out leaving was the right decision.  There was a lot of thunder on the journey back and, as we were disembarking at the shore it came very close.  I noticed a ground spark less than 2m away from me which was unnerving as I was standing on a metal stair case at the time.  Mr EE and the rest of the family were, thank goodness)  already undercover on the (wooden) jetty although Miss EE was rather unnerved by the very loud thunderclap that ensued. 

Bukit Merah Orang Utan Sanctuary Ersatz Expat
One very lucky EE!

The visit was one of the very best days we have spent in Malaysia, not only because we had the opportunity to see the orangutans and learn a little bit more about them but because the sanctuary is so obviously extremely well run.  It was an absolute delight and we can’t wait to return.

Posted as part of the weekly Animal Tales linky

ANIMALTALES

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Ersatz Expat