How To Be An Expat In Saudi Arabia: Ramadan

We are coming up to the start of Ramadan, the fasting month for Muslims worldwide.  

We have lived in many majority Muslim countries and in most, business continues as usual for the month.  In some fasting is a matter of personal conscience, in others a legal requirement for all Muslims.  In Saudi Arabia fasting in public is obligatory for all, even non Muslims.  Children are, of course, allowed to eat and drink during the day but for everyone else the fast is mandatory, not even a sip of water is allowed (until you reach the privacy of your own home).  

Life in Saudi changes completely during Ramadan.  Working hours are curtailed, roads are busy (and the driving even more erratic) in the hour leading up to Iftar and then uncharacteristically empty as families gather to break their fast. Charitable obligations are taken particularly seriously during Ramadan with many people donating food packages to those in need.  

Shops and homes are decorated with Ramadan lanterns.

Life becomes nocturnal.  Restaurants do not open until after the Maghrib prayer and then remain busy all night, supermarkets and some shops are open during the day to allow people to get the food needed for the evening but only really come to life after Isha and Taraween prayers.

The night is full of life, from the corniche to the streets of old Balad or the precincts of the modern malls.  The schools close (national exams were moved forward to before Ramadan to accommodate it) and families aim to spend as much time as possible together.  Our children go to an international consular school and therefore are not impacted by the closures although their days are shorter.

Even as non Muslims, Ramadan here in Saudi Arabia has a big impact on our lives.  Day to day we still have to be up for work/school and this means that the children have to go to bed at their normal time.  The result of this is that although Mr EE and I can go out and enjoy events around the city in the evenings or join in any Iftar celebrations we are invited to, there is very little we can do with the children; they are in bed and asleep before anything is ready to start.  Pretty much every attraction is shut during the day, last year we did take them on some walks but while the children were ok Mr EE and I really felt the lack of water in the heat.  We will stick to the compound and spend most of their weekends in the swimming pool.

Ramadan is an important time for our Muslim friends and colleagues and we wish them all Ramadan Kareem.

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How To Be An Expat In Saudi Arabia: Compounds.

There are two options when it comes to  choosing accommodation in Jeddah, you can opt to live on a walled compound or chose to live ‘In Arabia’.  

The former is, naturally, more expensive than the latter, not least because the houses typically come unfurnished and when they say that they mean it.  Friends living outside have to provide their own kitchen units and white goods and even AC units as well as meet the more typical furniture expectations.  Houses in a compound cost more to rent but come furnished.  As well as meaning that new arrivals do not need to find a budget for kitchen units the costs cover provision of security, corner shops and exercise/relaxation facilities as well as all utility charges.  When we arrived we moved straight into Mr EE’s predecessor’s house to make things simple.  It gives us a base for the first 6 months which will allow us to look at the different housing options available to us.  We have since moved in to our own, larger, home complete with a bedroom for each child and a garden for the pets.

While I would normally prefer to live away from other expats in a private home in a more local district that choice is not really practical for our life here in KSA.  As I cannot drive I would have to take a taxi to and from school every afternoon to collect the children, I would need to wear an abaya just to step out of the house, could not send the children to collect last minute essentials from the corner shop and not be able to swim to my heart's content in a public swimming pool.  The latter issues are, of course, minor but the driving and transport was the deciding factor for us.  Most of our friends who live off compounds have no or older children and so are not limited in the same way.

Our compound is attached to Mr EE and the children’s school.  This makes for an easy 2 minute commute for Mr EE in the morning and means he can pop home for supper and to see the children before going back to work again in the evening.  Given the proximity of the school and home we also allow Master and Miss EE to go to and from school by themselves and one can do after school clubs while the other comes home and vice versa, they are not stuck waiting for eachother.  This independence is fantastic for them and it means that they are learning to be responsible for their own timekeeping.  Mr EE drops Mini EE off at her crèche every morning and I pick her up just before the older children get home.  The school run in our last posting took up a significant portion of my day, at one stage Master and Miss EE had different pick up times so I would spend 3 hours on collection duty just in the afternoon.  If Mr EE was away and unable to do the morning drop off I had another hour.  I find that I am so much more productive here because of this.

Our compound has a small shop, some exercise facilities, a library, recreation room and 2 pool complexes.  It also provides a shopping bus twice a day so that it is easy to go and get groceries or run errands while private lift share cars such as Uber and Careem are allowed onto the compound to drop me at my door.  Some of the other compounds have larger shops, restaurants, travel agents, beauty salons and hairdressers etc  (some even have a bowling alley and one a vets).  They are, to all intents and purposes, small villages in their own right.  Each has their own character but while it might be nice to be able to pick and choose the reality is that almost all the good compounds have long waiting lists particularly for family sized homes so most people go where their employers put them.  

Because there are heavy restrictions on mixed social activities in KSA the compounds, alongside the consulates, become the hub of expat activity.  A quick google will make Jeddah seem like an activities and cultural desert simply because no one posts anything online.  Once you arrive, however, and start to get to know where to look, there are things to do everywhere.

The greatest upside and the saddest downside of life on the compound is that we are massively insulated from real life in KSA.  We live a life of luxury cocooned from the outside.  I think it would be possible for someone to come to live in Jeddah (or any other Saudi city for that matter) and never really realise what life is like in the city.  Of course many of our friends and contacts are other western expats and most of the organised social events are arranged with these interest groups in mind so we have had to make a particular effort to connect and become friends with locals and long term expats, to read the local news and try to stay in touch with what is going on outside the expat community.  This means we catch glimpses and hear snippets of what life is really like at both ends of the spectrum, the grinding poverty of the sub continent expat labourers and the nonchalant opulence of life for the super rich.  There are times we regret that circumstances force us into our bubble.   Then pragmatic reality reasserts itself and I am thankful for the short commute and the swimming pool.

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How to Learn Arabic In Jeddah

Some expat postings are easy in terms of languages, some are more challenging.  In four of my postings  I have been lucky to speak a language that is either the national language or extremely widely spoken.  Others have required me to learn to communicate in another tongue. 

I tend to approach languages by getting an introductory ‘teach yourself’ book or app and then, when I have enough basic information, just start to converse.  In Venezuela my parents gave me a language book to read then told me I had ‘volunteered’ to translate to and from Spanish  for the English, German and Dutch children at company summer camp.  It was a real ‘in at the deep end’ moment but it did work, by the end of the week I had some basic facility in the language, albeit with a very strong local accent!  In fact I have always made the best progress in a language when living somewhere where people do not speak English (nowhere else really speaks Dutch!) as it forces me to learn.  I adopt a pragmatic approach.  I don’t need to speak a language perfectly but I do need to be able to communicate.  Once I can do that I can start to improve and find that people are generally happy to help.  One fruit stall holder at a market in Astana used to reward me with a piece of fruit if I had improved since she had last seen me.

Arabic has not been so easy to learn, partly because on a day to day basis most people we come in contact with speak perfect English.  Colleagues, all parents at school and most residents of our compound do, most shop keepers, Expat or Saudi, do too.  I have tried to learn using apps but the dialect here is very different to the language used in them and because of the way the letters of the alphabet change depending on their position in a word it has been almost impossible for me to self teach.

Confusing is not the word!

I was over the moon, therefore, when I found a language course offered by a local institute (The Jeddah Cultural Exchange Centre).  The course is broken into parts and I was able to register for the beginners’ sessions.  The aim of these was to gain familiarity with the alphabet and learn some basic vocabulary.  The course was quite intensive, three nights a week for four weeks.  The course was taught in English which was perfect for me although I have a huge amount of respect for the pupils for whom English is a second language!  Our teacher, a Syrian lady now living in Jeddah, started by teaching us the 28 letters of the Arabic alphabet and how to recognise them, not just as a stand-alone letter but when we saw them at the beginning, middle and end of a word.

I thought Cyrillic, with its multiple letters for Y, was challenging but for someone used to the Latin Alphabet Arabic is a whole new level of difficult.  There are 4 or 5  different forms of the letter T, some are distinct but others are impossible for my ear to distinguish from each other, the two Ks are equally confusing.  The 2 (or 3) Ds are, at least distinct (in written if not in spoken form) as are the three forms of S, the two As and the two different H’s.  Yet more letters do double duty.  The Y can stand for Y or E and the W for W and O.  There are even more letters that are only used at the ends of words.  Short vowels (A, I and U)  are modifiers used above or below the word to change the pronunciation of a letter ie Ba, Bi, Bu, but these are not typically written so you just have to ‘know’ which vowel is used where.  A lot of the letters look suspiciously similar when written; a misplaced dot can mean the difference between a J and a K or a Z and an R and whether or not a loop is coloured in can change a GH to an F. 

It was enough to give me a headache, gradually, however, things started to make sense.  I have started to be able to read simple words (I was over the moon to read Balsamic on the vinegar bottle and Cocoa on the cocoa tin).  The course has been a success because it does not concentrate on the written form of the language to the exclusion of everything else (a common aspect of language courses here).  Our teacher has also worked hard to make sure that we are able to communicate.  The other day I clarified a measurement  length of an Abaya in Arabic and I felt ridiculously pleased.  The lady in the shop did too and gave me a huge grin. 

The course has a secondary benefit as well and that is the chance to get to know other people in Jeddah.  Participants registered on the course are from all over the world, India, South Africa, UK, Philippines, Turkey, US and Malaysia.  We have all come to Jeddah for very different reasons but it is lovely to get to know each other. 

There is a long way to go, building vocabulary (and retaining it) is challenging because I do not have to use the language every day.  I have registered for the second level course to try to keep the momentum in my studies.

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Jeddah Corniche

Jeddah is a coastal city and, as such, has an extensive waterfront.  The corniche is divided up into a number of discrete sections, all slightly different in character and all equally charming and enjoyable.  One of our favourite parts is the Middle Corniche Park.  This is quite some way from our home and can take up to half an hour to get there but it is worth it. 

Enjoying the scenery at the Corniche Park

Nestled at the end of Falastin (Palestine) street, this park is home to some quite tracts of grass, a walk way, some play grounds, sculpture and views over the King Fahd fountain.  We like to go down towards evening time, aiming to get to the park about 15 minutes before sunset prayers.  This gives us time to get a bottle of water or an ice cream from a snack vendor before they close up.

There are plenty of vendors selling treats for children
and picnic essentials like cushions and carpets.

As non Muslims we are, of course, not required to do anything other than not disturb those at their devotions.  All shops close down by law and restaurants close their doors to new customers.  In the park roll out carpets are available for those who wish to pray.  We tend to take the opportunity to walk quietly through the park, enjoying the scenery and the sunset.  The gardens are well maintained and full of sculptures although to my untutored eye they do not  appear to be the best quality.

The park is quiet during prayer time

But full of life at other times.

As prayers come to an end families break out picnics and barbeques on the lawns, children cycle or roller-skate down the path, married couples stroll hand in hand and hopeful young men cast their fishing lines.  In the cooler weather you see people out for a run, men in their sports wear and sometimes even the odd woman in her abaya (although given the difficulty of running in one women tend more towards power walking).

The park is a pleasant place for a romantic stroll

Strange sculptures abound

We are not even sure what these are!

Sunsets in Jeddah are often less than spectacular; we don’t get enough cloud cover for the really striking skies that I loved in Brighton, another seaside town I called home for many years.  Nevertheless it is the best time to enjoy the spectacle that is the King Fahd fountain.  Built in the 1980s it is the tallest fountain in the world, shooting seawater up to around 300m high.  It is so imposing that can be seen from the aircraft as they come in to land at the airport and it can be seen at the other end of town (if you are high enough).

Children play in the many well equipped parks

People gather to enjoy convivial evenings

This section of the corniche is only a few kilometres long so once we have walked to the end and back we just have time to nip into a restaurant on Falastin before they close the doors for the night time prayers.

Sunset is the best time to enjoy views of the fountain

It dominates this part of town

This park is, for us, a perfect example of how life here is like and yet unlike anywhere else.  People enjoy the seafront in seaside towns around the world.  Watching children eat cotton candy and learn to roller-skate on promenades (as I did in Brighton all those years ago) and seeing couples stroll and families barbeque it could be the seaside in Miri, the riverside in Astana; and yet… it is quintessentially Arabia.

Posted as part of the Travel at Home Blog Link Up

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How to be an Expat in Saudi Arabia: All About Abayas and Other Clothes

One of the biggest worries many expats have before arriving for their first time in Saudi Arabia is the issue of clothing.  A lot of people assume that women have to cover up completely and that men can wear what the want.  This is not quite true.  The clothing rules are not quite as restrictive for women as many people think.

All women have to wear an abaya, this is close to a non negotiable. I have seen some women out and about in a long salwaar kameez but the only time I remove my abaya in public is when I get through passport control at the airport where the dress restrictions are more relaxed, even then I ensure that I am very covered.  

I bought some cheap abayas before leaving Malaysia and they have been honourably retired having done their job of getting me from the plane to the house and out to the abaya shop.  Made of cheap polyester they are hot beyond belief.  They were sold to me by a very fashionable young Malay lady who spent most of the time trying to persuade me to buy the neon pink and bright purple offerings instead of a black one and a navy blue one.  I resisted but I need not have been so conservative.  While hot pink might be pushing it a little the women here in KSA do not always wear black (at least in the costal cities, in Riyadh and other more conservative places black is, I understand, still the norm). 

Not only in black 

When you go to the abaya shop you will be faced with a bewildering array of options to choose from.  Here in Jeddah white and cream abayas are popular as are shades of blue and purples, many are decorated with floral or geometric patterns.  There are a huge range of different styles to choose from, open front, wrap, butterfly, cape, umbrella, the list is endless.    During the summer  light cottons, linens and georgettes are more popular than the heavier fabrics.  You can buy an abaya for no more than about $20-30 but the quality of the cheaper ones is poor and they tend to be made from very very hot material.  Designer offerings in silk are astronomically expensive but a good variety of mid-range stuff is available in cool fabrics and pretty designs.  Abayas are sized by length in inches from your shoulder to your ankle (or the floor).  Most shops stock 58 as standard but will order in a shorter one for you (or have it altered to your specification).  Being short I take a 53 so I tend to have to get them altered, this is generally done at no extra cost.

You can pick one up in a market shop for a reasonable price
but prepare to boil

Most of mine are ‘open front’ that close with popper buttons and a belt.  They look a little like a cross between the academic gown I wore at university and my dressing gown which is a strange thing to wander about in in public! Open abayas work well for malls and air conditioned places and seem to be the most popular with our local friends, that said I tend to prefer dresses to trousers so I have to make certain that Mini EE does not indulge in her favourite hobby of popper button opening when we are out and about. I have invested in a large volume of  replacement poppers as the dratted things come off  and roll away if you so much as look at them.   I have also bought some long dress like cotton abayas that I can wear on their own or with just light cotton trousers when walking out and about. 

Abayas are a way to showcase your sense of fashion when out and about
(NB the shops are shut for evening prayers hence the shutters)

A quick look at Saudi women shows that the extent to which they wear what westerners would perceive as a ‘traditional’ abaya varies quite a lot.  The colour issue aside some women’s abayas are not much more than a long, light coat in an array of colours and left completely open while others are completely covered in black from head to foot, even wearing gloves.  Many expat women dislike the abaya.  I don’t resent wearing it as such, (it means I am not going to get sunburn) but I do resent the fact that I have no say in the matter  (though I would probably wear an abaya or other similarly modest clothing as a matter of courtesy even if not required to).  That said everyone who comes to KSA knows the rules and accepts them when they arrive.  Even Saudi women have a love/hate relationship with their abayas, embracing what is good about the garment while struggling with the problems it can create (tripping over, catching in escalators, trailing sleeves, overheating etc). 

As soon as you are through a door and into a private space it is perfectly acceptable to remove your abaya as long as invited to do so by your hosts (be guided by them).  Most women here will choose to do so although some will prefer to retain their headcovering and/or their abaya, it is all a matter of personal preference.  

Men also tend to dress conservatively and traditionally.

Head coverings are not obligatory for expats (Muslim or otherwise) unless approached to cover by the muttawa (religious police), I try to remember to always carry a scarf in my handbag so that I can cover up in the event that I am asked but I have never yet been approached to do so.  I know one long term expat whose husband was approached and told to get her to cover her head, once in the many years she has been here.  As soon as the people who approached her had gone some local women approached her, apologised and invited her to remove it if she so wished.  Saudi women wear a head covering, ranging from the full niqab to a light scarf pushed back on the head. 

Young children are not subject to any clothing restrictions and wear pretty much what they want.  Like women men are also required to dress ‘modestly’ but the interpretation of ‘modest’ is much more fluid.  The majority of Saudi men wear the traditional long white thobes together with headdresses (thrown up on the head or behind the neck when indoors and used to protect the face when out in the sun.  On special occasions the ensemble is topped with a light cloak known as a bisht with sumptuous gold embroidery along the edges.  Some Saudi men prefer to wear western clothes, particularly at the weekends and t shirts are not uncommon.  Expat men are fine to wear normal suits or typical leisure clothing.  Western style shorts are not considered acceptable, you do see the odd western expat (and, very rarely, a Saudi man) wearing them out of the house or compound but it is very much the exception.  

For more posts on life in Saudi Arabia please click on the picture below.

The Ersatz Guide To Entering and Leaving Saudi Arabia

Every expat knows that travel is going to form a large part of their life and experience in country.  Given that KSA is the most difficult in the world to enter (visas regimes are very restrictive) it comes as no surprise that the airport can be a challenging experience. 

Saudia the national airline tends to be significantly cheaper than other carriers and we have found their flights to be excellent.  Good legroom, genuinely helpful flight attendants and excellent food.  It also flies to a wide range of destinations so Jeddah, our host city, makes an excellent hub.  Jeddah is the closest port of entry for Hajj and Umrah pilgrims and as such the flights tend to be pretty full.  Nevertheless every flight we have been on (Mr EE has done this a lot) has boarded and deplaned to the busses very quickly and easily.

Entering Saudi

When leaving the plane women should make sure that they are wearing an abaya or, if they have not been able to purchase one, long, loose clothing.  They should have a scarf to cover their head if asked.  All flights landing in Jeddah (and I believe, Riyadh) park on the tarmac some way from the terminal requiring a bus transfer.  If you are travelling with young children you will not receive your pushchair until after passport control so make sure that you have a sling or other carrier in your hand luggage.

A passport is not enough, you need reams of paperwork to get into KSA

In Jeddah, on entering the terminal building we have always been met by a fantastically unhelpful member of terminal staff.  The immigration hall is set up with the Umrah and other visas on the left and resident visas on the right.  Without fail the initial man directs all non Saudi’s to the entrance on the left.  There is no point trying to argue with him or insist that you need to go to the right, walk past the visa queues and into the main hall and ask another man if you can join the resident queue (there is usually someone there scratching his head trying to work out why all residents are walking into the wrong entrance).  Travellers with children will often be sent to the front of the queue, particularly during busy periods.  Some companies will also have representatives ‘air side’ to help their employees to the front of the queue.

On your first arrival in Saudi you will be required to scan the fingers and thumbs of both hands, thereafter you will only be asked to scan the fingers of your right hand.  Your visa will be checked, if you are a first time entrant.  Subsequently you will need to show your iqama and exit/re-entry permit to receive your entry stamp.  Once you are through passports you must show your entry stamp to a guard before you are permitted into the baggage hall.

Baggage is a nightmare because the belts are very short.  The combination of a very generous baggage allowance (two suitcases per person) and long waiting times in passports means that the cases pile up on the belt.  If you are dealing with your own luggage you will need long arms to reach a heavy case that is towards the back and if you are wearing an abaya you will also need to watch out not to get it caught in the belt.  Alternatively you can hire a porter for a very modest fee and he will sort the luggage out for you.  Once you have your bags you can go through the final security check, all bags are scanned whether or not you have something to declare,  and find your driver.

It is almost impossible to predict how long it will take to get through passports.  The fastest we have got through is 27 minutes (when Miss EE and I returned from a short trip home) but our driver tells us that he has waited up to 6 hours before.  If you are travelling with young children you may want to make sure that you have some drinks or snacks set aside to help you through the tedium that is the passports queue.

Leaving Saudi

You will have made your first arrival in Saudi on a 90 day resident visa which will have been replaced by your Iqama.  In order to be able to leave the country you will need to apply for an entry/re-exit visa.  This can be done relatively easily online and they are available as single or multiple visas.  They are not cheap, costing several hundred Riyals a visa. We are using single exits at the moment because we are getting close to the end of the school year, thereafter we will use annual multi exit visas.  I will feel better not having to apply online for something in the event that I need to travel last minute for a family emergency or similar.

On arriving at the airport you will be presented with a confusing array of check in desks.  Very few of these will have a destination flight highlighted.  Self-check-in is available but we have never yet managed to get this to work, we get all the way to the end and are told to go to a counter anyway.  It is best to check which counter to queue at although queue is a relative concept.  Once in a queue it is helpful to make eye contact with someone at a desk nearby, any desk, and shout your destination and they will make sure that you check in on time as some of the people might be queuing for flights due to leave much later than yours. 

There is no rhyme or reason to the queuing system

At the passport check you must present your passport, iqama and exit/re-entry visa.  You will receive an exit stamp and it is a good idea to remember which page it is on as this will be checked again before you board the plane.

Security checks are segregated with one line for women and one for men so be prepared for your party to be split, young children travelling with one parent will be allowed to stay with them but older ones will be asked to queue separately.  Once through you can shop in the duty free or get a bite to eat.  Don't bank on being able to find a seat to relax on, the hall always seems to be bursting.  Travellers to the US and the UK have to go through extra security screening before going down to the gate.  Finally there is an extra exit visa check before boarding the aircraft and you are finally on your way.

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The Ersatz Guide To Saudi Customs Rules!

There are a lot of misconceptions about life in KSA.  Everyone knows that things like Alcohol and Christmas trees are banned but what else can’t you bring?

Lets face it most countries have a list of things that you are not allowed to import.  When moving to the UK, for example, you are not allowed to bring weapons.  I remember a long discussion with a Venezuelan friend of the family who was looking to study in Southampton.  He was very upset at not being allowed to bring his pistol and knives as he was concerned about how he would defend himself in case of attack.  Given that he was not the type to consort with criminal gangs or go to nightclubs looking for fights we assured him that the police would have him covered (and would take a dim view of him carrying weapons on the streets).  He ended up studying in the US instead as he could just not cope with the idea of being undefended. 

Importing Dogs and Christmas Trees?
The important one is allowed!

Anyway, I digress.  As mentioned most countries will have a restricted list and you would do well to study this carefully before an international move if you do not want your goods held up in customs.  Your beautiful ivory wares (what on earth are you doing with that in this day and age!!!) will be unwelcome in most places and weapons, animals, certain electrical goods etc are often subject to restrictions.  Nevertheless the restricted list for KSA is somewhat longer than most other countries. 

We received guidance from our moving company and I have summarised it below.

Banned from shipment:

• Religious items that are contrary to Muslim beliefs and morality codes such as: religious decorations, Christmas trees, ornaments, statues, figurines, wood carvings  etc;
• any sculptures or metal works  depicting human or animal forms;
• any games of chance;
• real or ornamental weapons or firearms and/or antique handguns; military uniforms or equipment;
• any alcoholic beverages or any foodstuffs containing alcohol and any literature pertaining to preparation of alcoholic beverages;
• all pork products;
• narcotic drugs or medicines without prescription;
• radio transmitters or communication equipment;
• any pornographic and/or lewd pictures, videos  or materials.   

We were also advised that 110 volt equipment was banned from import which surprised us on arrival as our home as both 220 and 110v sockets and the light rings are on 110v.  If you are coming from the Americas I would advise that you check this with your shipping agent.

What does this mean in practice?

Most of the list is fairly standard but we did have a few things that might have caused problems so we sent a small portion, about 1 cubic meter in total, of our personal effects back to the UK.  This included all our religious books (although a single copy ie a family bible is permitted for personal use), figurines we had collected on our travels such as decorative scales weights from Cambodia depicting Ganesha, Buddha, Garuda etc, framed shadow puppets of Apsara dancers and Garuda, an antique parang we had bought in Borneo, our Christmas Tree, Nativity Crib etc.  Colleagues advised us that the pictures and figurines might or might not be ok so on balance we decided not to bring them as we would be upset to lose them as all had been gifts, had they not had any emotional significance we might well have packed them.  We also sent some books and films we were not sure would pass the censorship test.  In case you think the worst of us this comprised videos and books with a religious aspect.  Funnily enough we saw many of these same books on sale in the English language book store in the Jeddah Red Sea Mall so we were possibly a little over cautious. 

These did not make the import cut...

If you are on prescription medication you should carry a copy of the prescription with you to prove that it is for your personal use.  Again KSA is not unique in restricting import of medicines I know several people who have had codeine headache tablets removed in the UAE and my Father told me he was once told off for bringing strepsils (lightly medicated throat sweets) into Norway in the 1980s.

Pork and Alcohol

Many Muslim countries allow the sale of (or personal import of) pork and alcohol products for non-Muslims.  KSA is not one of these countries.  All such products are banned and their use or possession carries a heavy penalty.  Now personally I love pork but can do without it for a while, I will just enjoy many sausage and bacon based meals when we are out of the country.  Mr EE and I are not teetotal but we are not huge drinkers either often preferring a soft drink so the alcohol restrictions do not really bother us or have any real impact on our personal habits.  

Other people who enjoy a more regular drink may feel the impact of being in a ‘dry’ country.  Many such expats brew their own in the privacy of their own homes and even transport it between compounds.  As the news reports of the punishment of an elderly expat caught with alcohol in his possession out of the compound show, you do this at your own risk. 

With regard to importing alcohol be aware that it is relatively easy to do this inadvertently.  Check boxes of chocolates to ensure that none are liqueur based, ensure that your mouthwash is alcohol free and keen bakers should leave the vanilla extract at home. 

Surprising Things To Be Careful Of

Chess is, somewhat strangely, deemed a game of chance and is theoretically banned.  Nevertheless it is a popular game and there are chess clubs around the country.   I would caution against bringing any valuable or antique sets with you.  If you are a keen player consider using an app or packing a cheap set in your bags so that you do not delay clearance of your main shipment. 

The biggest wrench for us was to not be allowed to bring our Christmas tree.  Christmas is an important celebration for us as a family and we have a beautiful small tree that we cart around the world with some really special decorations including ones that the children have chosen each year, ones they have made and decorations we have collected on holidays.  We also have a beautiful olive wood nativity scene, an advent calendar etc.  Putting out the decorations is as much part of the build-up as enjoying seasonal food.  At the end of the day, however, what is more important is that we are together, a tree is nothing more than a symbol and something we can come back to in the future.  I understand that some trees are available for sale here at certain times of the year so if the children ask we might get something small.  We are likely to be abroad on holiday over the latter weeks of December in any event so while it is a shame it is not really important. 

Things You Can Bring

Contrary to many rumours that fly around the internet you can bring in children’s cuddly toys and you can bring your dogs.

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How to make a Saudi Visa Application

For most expatriates the start of the posting is a stressful time and one of the largest contributory factors to that is the hassle of sorting out a visa.  From submitting information to an employer or finding a visa agent and traipsing up and down to the embassy the process can take time and energy that you wish you could devote to other things.

Expats end up drowning in documents and tangled in red tape

Saudi visas are probably the most complex I have ever had to apply for.  Mr EE signed his contract in early December but it was almost the end of January before he was able to fly to take up the new post.  As the process was taking so long he flew out on a business visa while his working visa was organised.  It took us a further few months to get the dependant visas for the rest of the family. 

Working Visa

We were slightly delayed at the start of the application process because Mr EE, despite having paid for an extra large passport, had only one page left (UK large passports are only 48 pages compared with my 66 from Ireland) so we had to wait until we arrived in the UK and make an appointment for a 4 hour renewal (the UK provides excellent renewal services which can be done in person instead of by post, perfect for expats).

New passport in hand and police check from Malaysia sent ahead he passed the supporting documents on to the Visa Agent.  These documents included:

• photographs,
• letters of authorisation to permit the agents to deal with his visa on his behalf,
• a form authorising the use of his biometric information and agreement to abide by all Saudi laws,
• his signed and attested contract and his letter of invitation from his employer including his visa number as authorised by the Saudi Foreign Ministry. 
• Copies of all degree certificates
• Birth Certificate
• Medical Reports

We provided all the information to the agents in December but it was not until January that the embassy notified us that some documents had been uploaded in the wrong format and would have to be redone.  It was at this time that Mr EE’s employers pushed for a Business Visa so that he could work while the documentation issues were resolved. 

When we were told everything had been accepted he returned to the UK only to be told that he had to provide an up to date British police check in addition to the Malaysian one.  Luckily this can be requested online and is processed very rapidly.  It was a great relief when his visa finally came through.

Iqama

When Mr EE returned to Saudi on his working visa he was able to start the application process for his Iqama or residence permit.  This required another set of medical reports to be generated in Saudi itself (the ones used to get the visa cannot be transferred).  Once the reports were through he was able to apply for his Iqama, the whole process, from test to issue took less than a week.  With the Iqama he was able to apply for dependant passes for the rest of the family. 

Dependant Pass Application

I had already provided our ID certificates (Birth Certs for the Children and Marriage Cert for me) to the Visa Agents in advance so that they could be attested as genuine and ready to go when the passes were granted.  I was relieved that we did this ahead of time as it turned out the documents can only be attested in the country of origin and Mini EEs Birth Cert and Certified Translation had to be couriered to a friend in Malaysia for certification there. Once the attestation was complete I simply had to fill in an application form for each person (I signed for the children), a medical report for me (children do not need one) and the authorisation.  I was told that that was all that was necessary but at the last minute I also had to provide a British Police Certificate in my own name and sign an agreement to abide by all laws of the Kingdom.  The agents had not expected this to be necessary as other spouses at Mr EEs employer have not had to do that but apparently the rules have changed in recent months.

As soon as the dependant pass numbers were issued on Mr EEs Iqama the visa agent was able to take the documents to the embassy for issue.  Normal visa processing time in London is about 2 working days although other Embassies might take a little longer.  After waiting for months for the documents they were issued in less than 24 hours and we found ourselves on a flight out just 12 hours after that. 

Dependant Iqamas

Now that we are in country I have started the process of applying for my own Iqama and one for each of the children.  The visas themselves have only a 90 day validity and a single entry so it is vital that we get them as soon as possible (Miss EE and I have to go to the UK for a wedding in a few weeks time).  Once we have the Iqamas I am advised that the visa falls into abeyance and that we simply apply for an exit/re-entry visa whenever we want to leave.  As with Mr EE, I had to go to the government clinic for more medical tests.  They are not onerous (TB screening, blood, urine and stool samples) and the children are exempt from this requirement.  Once I have an Iqama Mr EE and I can attend the court to request pet import certificates, once that is done the whole family will be together again.

Tourist Visas are not issued to KSA so we had assumed that our friends and family would not be able to visit us.  We were told, however, that visitor visas for family members are available so hopefully we can get some people out here soon.

Things To Be Aware Of

I found the whole process to be depressing and frustrating.  It would probably not be so bad if you are applying in good time but because Mr EE was needed as soon as possible we had to terminate his employment in Malaysia which left the children and me without a visa or home there.  We could have stayed on tourist visas but the children would not have been able to go to school so we decided to return to visit family in the UK.  I would give the following advice to anyone going through the process.

• Apply in your home country if possible (documents such as certificates have to be attested in country).
• Apply in plenty of time.  The whole process from signing the contract to getting our dependant passes took 4 months.  Mr EE was out in 1 ½ but only because he flew out on a short term business visa as an interim measure.  That meant he could not open a bank account or buy a car when he arrived, he had to wait for the Iqama to do so.
• Get a good visa agent.  Ours was useless, they kept on changing the goalposts on us, requesting new documents at the last minute, required us to do things they should have sorted out such as couriering documents to Malaysia and finding an agent there.  We got an overall impression that they did not know what they were doing.  I know that Mr EEs employers have now changed agent. 
• Get extra copies of everything.  To be honest I tend to order new copies of birth and marriage certificates every year as they come in so handy, that way if an embassy or institution retains one on file I have others to fall back on.  The only exception to this is my birth certificate (I have only one and need to get around to going to the Hague to apply for extra copies) and Mini EE’s birth certificate (we were given one and one only and I do not know how to get extra copies in Malaysia).  I guard these two documents with an almost fanatical intensity and try to use colour photocopies or scans whenever possible.
• Agree with employers as to who will shoulder the cost of delay if it results in a hiatus in employment.
• Be flexible, you might need to produce extra supporting documents at short notice.
• Be aware that your visa will have only a 90 day validity so you should start your Iqama application as soon as possible.
• Medical reports for the Iqama require both urine and stool samples to be provided on the spot.  Do what you need to do to make sure that you can produce on demand.
• Try not to stress. 

Good Luck

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Our New Posting...

When we left Malaysia on 8 December last year we knew that we would have a hiatus of sorts before we were able to move on to our new posting.  We were told to expect a wait of about 8 weeks before my husband could get his working visa and a further 3 weeks for dependant passes.  We had a best case scenario of us moving out there in February half term and a worst case of my birthday (early April).  Well we have not quite made it to my birthday but after 16 weeks in the UK we have cut it pretty fine.

People have been asking me for some time about our new posting but, in an excess of superstition I did not want to say anything until all the paperwork was in order.  However I can now say, without worry, that we will be living in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.  We received the visas today, after many months of waiting in the UK and after a whirlwind of packing we will be flying tomorrow, 31 March.

KSA is my 11th or 12^th (I am not really sure, there have been so many over the years) posting and the 9^th country I will have the privilege to live in.  It is very different to all the other countries I have called home in the past and there are aspects that leave me a little apprehensive, it was certainly not a posting that was ever on my radar before now but it will be an adventure and we are all looking forward to it.

Of course the next few weeks will be filled with the typical expat relocation challenges, settling into our new home, finding help, getting the shipment, getting the pets, finding our feet but the important thing for us is that we will be exploring our new home together.