Unlike
the families who are here with the large international firms we do not have
access to a car and driver but this is not really a problem here. Astana is a relatively easy city to get around
and driverless expats are left with several options.
There
are very good bus routes, prices are cheap and you can get just about
anywhere. The problem is that you have
to know where you are going and when to get off, bus drivers and passengers are
very friendly but expect you to know what you want. When you have just arrived in the city and
have only very basic Russian, this can lead to some interesting journeys. The other problem with buses is that they
run to their own timetable and not yours. This can be fine in the summer but
waiting at a bus stop in -35 for a bus that is running late because the engine
block froze is not a pleasant experience.
Hire
taxis are available outside all the main malls and to call by telephone. Ordering a taxi can be very very confusing
for new arrivals. Firstly all numbers
are advertised without the city code so you must make sure that you know it
(7172), you then need to be able to tell the dispatcher where you are, where
you want to go and your telephone number.
Once the taxi is at your door they will call you with the details of the
car – usually the colour and the number-plate.
This rigmarole is designed to make sure that you do not have to stand
outside hoping the taxi will be there at the appointed time but it does
pre-suppose that you can speak Russian well enough to understand rapid
instructions. If you do get a taxi from
a rank be prepared to be quoted some astronomical figure. The airport taxis usually ask for some
exorbitant fee to take you the 30 minutes into the city. A quick discussion usually sees this brought
down to a more reasonable price.
Ordering
taxis is generally safest if you need to be somewhere at a defined time (ie get
to the airport for a flight) or you are a woman travelling alone late at
night. For the rest of the time it is
easier to get a street hire or gypsy cab.
It is not at all uncommon to see people from all walks of life
hitchhiking around the city. All you need
to do is find somewhere where cars can pull to the side safely and hold out
your arm and hand (extend the hand do not hold your fist with your thumb
up). People will pull over and will
offer you a lift if you are going in their general direction. Of course the usual rules apply, lone women should decline a lift from a car
with two or more men in and don’t get in
if the driver appears to be drunk or to have an unhealthy addition to texting
while driving. 500tg (£2) is the standard fare, some drivers ask for more but I
usually decline these offers of a lift and wait for another to come along, they
always do.
The
quality of the lift can vary, sometimes you have a very smart car, sometimes it
is falling to pieces. We try not to get
lifts with obvious problem cars but sometimes things only come to light as you
are driving along, then all you can do is pray!
Be prepared to give directions as not all drivers have a good grasp of
the geography of the city. It is not
unusual for gypsy cabs to take completely bizzarre routes, not for any
nefarious reason but because they may not know the shorter routes, they are
generally happy to go the way you ask them.
Most
drivers are very friendly, even garrulous.
They usually want to know where you are from, how long you have lived in
Astana and what you think of the city.
Some drivers will give you their card in the hope of getting more
business from you and some really go all out to convince you that you cannot
manage to live in Astana without their help and support. Last winter we had a lift from a driver from
Uzbekistan who entertained us with stories about how he had lived in Germany
for five months working as a taxi driver (the mind boggles). He asked if we spoke German and was over the
moon when we said we understood a few words.
He had a firm belief in his linguistic abilities and started sprouting
phrases that made no sense in Russian or German, we were reduced to nodding
along and making sympathetic noises while we prayed that the scraping sound that
we heard was just the exhaust dragging along the road and not something more
vital to the successful completion of the journey. When we arrived at our destination we were
handed his card and asked if we wanted to employ him as a full time driver,
after all he had such a high quality car and where else could we get a driver
that we could understand! He was very
surprised that we would not hand out our numbers and seemed a little put out when
we came out with the time honoured ‘don’t call us we’ll call you’.
Gypsy
cabs and taxis rarely have working seatbelts in the back seats (they are there
but the parks are often tucked out of reach behind the cushions), this means
that they are not the best option for travelling with children. There are rules here about drinking and
driving, texting or ‘phoning while driving and wearing seatbelts but these are
not always observed by all drivers.
Luckily traffic is speed restricted in the city so the cars rarely move fast
meaning that the inevitable accidents are generally not too bad. Nevertheless, because of the lack of
seatbelts and the long wait for the bus in the winter we decided to take the
plunge and buy our own car but that is a whole other ball game.
Click the picture for more posts on life in Kazakhstan.
Click the picture for more posts on life in Kazakhstan.
Thanks for writing about this subject. We will be car-less when we arrive and I was wondering how to get around especially with a 2 and 6 year old. I have heard that some are able to walk to places even in the very cold weather, especially if you live near a mall. Is this also true?
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for the great blog!
Hi Natalie
DeleteWelcome to Astana. Do you know where you will be living? We like the area round the Baiterek because it is in walking distance of just about all the main places you will need to go. Some of our friends live in the old town/Samal area which has beautiful river views and is close to some amenities.
Many expats like to live in Highvill because it has some of the best housing in the city but if you do not have a car you might find yourself isolated in the winter.
Most car-less families manage just fine, we were certainly ok in our first winter.
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